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Glenn Martens chose to show his Autumn/Winter 2020 collection in Paris 15th arrondissement, in the abandoned premises of Galeries Lafayette Montparnasse (the Parisian department store closed back in November), while it is still unsure what the venue’s next life is going to be. This provided a blank canvas for Martens to present his collection, which showcased a continuation of Pre-Fall’s intricate silhouettes. Even more than before, the collection revolved around the “V” shape – a staple of the Y/Project aesthetic usually found on extra-large belts or to enhance asymmetry. In this collection, it found new exciting forms, namely as an exaggerated, open fly on a series of trousers or as the outline of tight bodysuits.

Chitose Abe focused on movement this season. The Sacai designer created a few moments of surprise by showing completely transformative silhouettes when put in motion. Walking down her runway, a men’s pantsuit became a flowing dress, and a metallic silhouette was either a cocktail dress or a double-breasted coat. Movement became the motive for exploration as silhouettes went by: spatial exploration first with a series of cosmic prints created using NASA images. Then came textile exploration: Abe collaborated with Girard Studio, the family-owned archive of American design icon Alexander Girard, known for his work with prints and colors, presenting two silhouettes with re-coloured prints for Sacai.