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Oscar Ouyang meets me at the entrance of his studio building on Hackney Road in East London. We follow him up staircases and around corners, through a winding succession of corridors lined with neighbouring studios. By the time we reach his door, I’m not sure I could find my way back alone.

Inside, a knitting machine slides back and forth, its steady rhythm accompanying the sweet smell of incense. In one corner, members of his team have gathered around books, one perched on a box, leafing through a magazine. Work continues around our arrival.

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Glance around Fidan Novruzova’s office and you find yourself deep inside a wunderkammer of references and signs from the universe. The handle of an Art Deco vanity has a strange coincidence with a piece of jewellery from a previous season, and the book on the shelf has a serendipitous backstory too. You can’t quite shake the feeling that a lot is happening or, more accurately, that something is about to happen. Things have a way of finding their way into the Moldovan-Azerbaijani designer’s universe, each one an invitation to experiment and see where it might lead.

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In a small office in the Tokyo neighbourhood Harajuku, Kenta Orimi welcomed me into the studio for his eponymous brand, Orimi. After high school he was drawn to the area, working in various stores and boutiques, and in 2018 he opened The Elephant, a select shop where you’ll find pieces from Stefan Cooke, Vaquera, ERL, Martine Rose, carefully selected vintage pieces, as well as Orimi, of course.

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For her first show outside New York, Hillary Taymour brought Collina Strada to Copenhagen for Spring Summer 2027, a season that also marked Copenhagen Fashion Week’s 20th anniversary. Collina Strada was the first brand invited to take part in its new International Guest Slot, supported by The Climate Pledge.

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There is something about Paolina Russo that makes you want to be part of the gang. Canadian-born, half Filipina and half Italian, Russo grew up in Markham, Ontario, while her French co-founder Lucile Guilmard was raised in Fouras, a small seaside town on France’s Atlantic coast. Their London-based label draws on the things they grew up with far away from fashion capitals: arts and crafts, local sports, video games, music and the particular kind of imagination that comes from having to make your own fun.

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On a leafy street in Yunusabad, just north of central Tashkent, behind a wrought-iron gate and a garden planted with roses, irises and young fruit trees, stands a pale yellow villa that once belonged to a prosecutor in the municipal justice system. Today it houses the studio of designer Jenia Kim, whose eponymous label — founded in 2014, while she was living in Moscow — has become one of the defining voices in contemporary Central Asian fashion. While many designers from the region have built careers by leaving, Jenia has spent the last four years doing the opposite: building a company, a studio and, increasingly, a creative community in the city where she was born.

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