The 24th issue has been curated by Erdem Moralioglu MBE, the British-Turkish fashion designer and creative director of his eponymous London-based label ERDEM.
A Magazine Curated By Erdem is a cross-cultural, time-travelling exploration of Erdem’s diverse range of sociological and aesthetic references that centres on the disruptive figures of crucial periods in our collective history. Throughout the issue, game-changing figures from gender-bending Edwardian aristocrats to creative wunderkinds like Virginia Woolf, Patrick Procktor, Cindy Sherman, Marlene Dietrich and Derek Jarman meet the gaze of contemporary image-makers from across the globe including new commissions by Ethan James Green with Dara Allen, Campbell Addy with Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, William Waterworth with Amanda Harlech, and Trinity Ellis with Ola-Oluwa Ebiti.
As a non-identical twin, Erdem reflects upon the themes of duality and mirroring, deconstructing the notion of twinning and the fluidity of gender in his exploration of Orlando by Virginia Woolf and the 1993 film by Sally Potter, as well as personal archives from Aubrey Beardsley’s The Yellow Book (1894-97) and the defunct queer magazine After Dark from the 1960s.
Erdem’s deeply personal dedication to the project can be witnessed throughout, with a series of interviews with Glenn Close, Roni Horn, Tim Blanks and Sally Potter, as well as two photographic series conducted by the designer himself, one featuring close friends, family, and muses from Ruthie Rogers, Maria Balshaw, Gugu Mbatha-Raw, Ruth Wilson and Claire Foy to his twin sister Sara and RCA tutor Wendy Dagworthy. Another features principal dancers and artists from the Royal Ballet. In an ode to Erdem’s late mother, his sister Sara Moralioglu speaks to the acclaimed British painter Kaye Donachie on abstract figurative painting, followed by an arresting cyanotype study of the tulip by creative director Thomas Persson and photographer Annemarieke van Drimmelen.
Bursting with colour and life, A Magazine Curated By Erdem is a swirling celebration of fashion, photography, modern and contemporary painting, arthouse cinema, music and queer pop culture as seen from Erdem’s sophisticated, witty point of view.
“When I was 17, I would sit in my bedroom in the basement of our suburban bungalow listening to the Pet Shop Boys. Our house was pale yellow stucco with a big lake at the end of the street. I would spend hours dreaming up escape routes and imagining whom I might fall in love with.”
Table of Contents
Erdem, Past and Present
A Portrait of Queer History
Fanny & Stella
All About My Mother
Pas de Deux
Let Us Compare Mythologies
The Yellow Book
I See You
Michael Craig Martin
The Ballet Portfolio
Never Being Boring
Contributors in alphabetical order:
Amanda Harlech, Andreas Grill, Anj Smith, Anne Collier, Annemarieke van Drimmelen, Bruce La Bruce, Campbell Addy, Charlie Porter, Christopher Kane, Cindy Sherman, Dara Allen, Derek Jarman, Dimphy den Otter, Ethan James Green, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, Glenn Close, Guinevere van Seenus, Guy Bourdin, Hugo MacDonald, Ian Massey, James Righton, Kaye Donachie, Michael Craig Martin, Michael Stipe, Neil Tennant, Nicholas Cullinan, Ola Ebiti, Olgaç Bozalp, Patrick Procktor, Roni Horn, Roxane Danset, Sally Potter, Sara Moralioglu, Sarah Mower, Sølve Sundsbø, Theo Christelis, Thomas Dozol, Thomas Persson, Tim Blanks, Trinity Ellis, William Waterworth, Yates Norton.