An exclusive portfolio of behind-the-scenes images from the collections of A Magazine Curated By guest-curators Iris Van Herpen, Thom Browne and Giambattista Valli.
Jil Sander Men’s AW2022 as seen by Olivier Kervern
American Cathedral, Paris
The freedom to be individual. Lucie and Luke Meier, curators of the 21st issue of A Magazine Curated By, exalt the liberation of self-expression through beautifully crafted pieces for the Jil Sander Men’s Autumn Winter 2022 collection. An open invitation to “personally interpret, and appropriate, their work; to make it our own,” this sentiment is also reflected in the duo’s conception of A#21. Brought to life by French production company Back of the House, whose founder Anne Sophie Prevot’s contributions also feature inside A#21, this collection was presented at the magnificent American Cathedral in Paris, complete with a giant, suspended lantern presiding over this afternoon service.
The French photographer and A#21 contributor Olivier Kervern documented the show backstage in a series of candid black & white and colour images emphasising the immense scale and contrasting textures of the space and collection.
“Every piece here is self-standing, iconic, and executed with exceptional craftsmanship, in the most refined wools and silks. The Meiers’s pleasure in researching new embroideries, knits, intarsia, in using different fabrics with different touches, from dry to feathery, season after season, is palpable.
Comfort. The atmosphere is indulgent and urban, turning inside out day and night, work and play, utility and glamour, uniform-inspired coats and trenches, tailored suits, and printed silk pajamas. Earrings, brooches, knotted scarves, embroideries on coats and jackets, and silk foulards, used also as belts on boxy, oversized jackets and coats, add vital tones to the whole.”
“The silhouette is structured, self-confident and relaxed at the same time. Trousers, also in black and brown leather, are all straight and lean; tucked into very pointy or super squared zipped or elasticated boots. The sharper coats in dry Japanese wool feel luscious and enveloping. Coats are central: some are furry and soft, some collarless, with leather lapels or contrasting shearling plastrons, some have, white & green or orange & black diagonal stripes, one is in pale blue suede, one is in an abstract leopard jacquard.
The variety and richness of knitwear accentuates the overarching desire for a mix of warmth, ease, and luminescence. Sophisticated, vividly coloured, striped, in wool or in chenille, or in wool with chenille intarsia, pullovers are long and boxy or short and close to the body, with round or soft high collars.
The colour palette, between off-white and black, plays with sartorial archetypes, mixing hues: butter, ivory, sage, sand, cocoa, steel blue, burgundy, and hints of orange, yellow and green.
Together with the boots, small rectangular tool bag-inspired shoulder cases, and large tote and shopper bags, add a significant utilitarian edge to the collection.”
At The Renaissance Society, Chicago, an untitled exhibition curated by the artist Shahryar Nashat and writer & curator Bruce Hainley simultaneously investigates the enigmatic relationships between image, perception, and the human body as a living or undead currency.
The 25th issue of has been guest edited by Chitose Abe of the Japanese cult label sacai. As the first Japanese woman to curate an issue, Abe has called upon her inner circle of friends, family and artistic collaborators to contribute cultural and creative content across the 200 page magazine.