Words by Jemma Pinueva
A Studio Visit with Awa Malina Stelter and Stephanie Gundelach
‘We don’t fight.’ The statement is delivered without emphasis, simply as fact. In fashion, volatility is reframed as creative energy. Raised voices, late pivots, visible intensity — these are common. Encouraged, even. But Awa Malina Stelter and Stephanie Gundelach, the founders of Opera Sport, are not interested in that way of working. Disagreements occur. Colours are debated. Cuts are reconsidered. If something does not resolve immediately, it is left alone and returned to later. ‘We’ve never not agreed on something,’ Awa says. Stephanie adds that sometimes it simply takes time. What they have built instead is a brand committed to recycled materials and the particular calm of two people who have never once failed to agree. In an industry that runs on noise, that feels almost radical.
Both began early. Awa started sewing at seven. There was a machine at home which she used. The first piece she remembers clearly was a skirt. Pleated skirts were popular then, and she did not have one, so she altered an A-line, adding pleats herself. ‘It was not the best,’ she says. ‘But I made it work.’ Stephanie’s entry point was drawing. She carried paper and pencils everywhere and sketched sculptures in museums. Later she made a lime-green and black top because she did not know what to wear to a party. After wearing that one time, other girls at school began ordering it. She produced them on weekends. ‘They were not perfect,’ she says. ‘But I felt really proud.’
At university, Awa studied management of creative business projects. She knew she wanted her own brand and understood she would need structural knowledge to build one. During a semester on exchange in Los Angeles, she visited manufacturing facilities and watched production at scale. ‘When I think of creating a garment, I always think about the sales part,’ she says. ‘It’s not either creativity or commerce. It’s always both.’ Stephanie grew up around her father’s business and wanted to build something independently. She describes herself as more creative than business-oriented. The impulse to construct something of her own was always present.
The brand began quickly. Their boyfriends suggested they have coffee. Within days, fabrics were on the table. ‘That’s how we started,’ Awa says. Three months later, the brand launched. They describe it casually — in another context, that speed might be retold as instinct, or risk, or fate. Here it is simply what happened.
The name came from where they were living. Stephanie had spent time in Paris. Awa was based in Copenhagen. Opera represented the elegance they associated with Paris. Sport represented the practicality of Copenhagen. ‘You need to be able to jump on a bike,’ Stephanie says. Paris and Copenhagen surface again in more personal terms. Stephanie describes Paris as stressful. ‘The energy is just on a different level.’ As a mother, she felt exposed when her children cried in public. ‘I felt like I had to be ashamed that my kids were screaming.’ Copenhagen feels different. Calmer. ‘Everything feels very laid back and chill.’ She says she feels safer there as a mother. Copenhagen is small. People know each other. ‘You don’t speak badly about others,’ Awa says.
Stephanie already had a child when the company began. She walked during Zoom calls because her son would not sleep otherwise. Awa became a mother about a year and a half later. ‘You just get so much more efficient,’ she says. A sick child the next day changes how you handle deadlines. ‘You never know what might happen tomorrow.’ Work is structured accordingly.
When they speak about each other, the tone stays even. Stephanie describes Awa as strong and solution-oriented, someone who moves quickly toward resolution. Awa describes Stephanie as playful, attentive to detail, instinctive with colour. There is no irony in the exchange. The descriptions feel considered. Growth comes up and the register does not change. International expansion. A larger flagship store. The ambition is present. It does not shift the temperature of the conversation.
When our discussion ends, nothing feels amplified. The story of launching three months after meeting is told in the same register as the memory of walking a stroller through Zoom calls. Plans for the future are described without italics, without weight. The steadiness is consistent, but it does not feel rigid. In an industry that mistakes intensity for commitment, their way of working feels — the word that keeps arriving, unbidden — safe.