N°1

THE PAST IS WHAT BONDS US, THE FUTURE LEADS US

A/rchive Study by Federico Nessi

Tabi Boots, MMM AW95 by Tatsuya Kitayama (1995)

Author:
Federico Nessi
Tags:
Anders Edström
Federico Nessi
Inge Grognard
Jonathan Hallam
Kyoichi Tsuzuki
Maison Martin Margiela
Marina Faust
Mark Borthwick
Martin Margiela
Nigel Bennett
Nigel Scott
Ola Rindal
PONI
Ronald Stoops
Tatsuya Kitayama

In the second of a series of A Magazine A/rchive studies, the Paris-based creative director Federico Nessi delves into A Magazine N°1 Curated By Maison Martin Margiela by revisiting the work of Margiela’s close collaborators and creatives through the years.

“Like many curious individuals during confinement, I watched the documentary film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words and, like many of us, was reminded of his sheer brilliance. Having been given the opportunity to dive into the A Magazine Curated By archives, I took this second project as a personal challenge to somewhat deconstruct issue #1, released in 2004 with the Maison Martin Margiela, when Martin himself was still around.

L-R:  Inge Grognard & Roland Stoops, Jonathan Hallam

In true Margiela fashion, issue #1 is orchestrated as a reunion of people who had ties to the house at the time: from models to permanent staff, choreographers to filmmakers, everyone was invited to be present, either by showing what they were working on or by simply giving insight into the the nature of their relationship. No doubt the most revelatory part of this exercise back then was its rebellion against Margiela’s shroud of anonymity that extended beyond his own public persona to his blouse blanche-wearing staff. Here, their names and roles were made clear, printed in black and white for all the world to read.

L-R: Ola Rindal, Inge Grognard & Ronald Stoops, Tatsuya Kitayama

Fast forward to 2020, sixteen years after this issue was published, and I was naturally curious to revisit some of these collaborators. ‘The past is what bonds us – The future leads us’ after all, was the crucial line that opened the magazine. At first I started gathering information and imagery from all the individuals, but quickly noticed there were several designers featured, most of whom at some point had worked in the MMM atelier. Although the path following their time linked to the house is significant, I wanted to preserve their time with the Maison as my fil rouge.

This is why I directed my attention almost exclusively to photographers and visual artists, whose work you see here. From Tokyo to Antwerp, these artists all capture the post-Dadaist essence of Martin Margiela’s rebellion against the conventions of Paris fashion. There is a rawness, a grit, that speaks to my personal attraction to countercultural movements. Beauty is redefined and previously imposed values are ravaged. Punk, grunge, new standards are set in motion.

Be it past or present, personal work or work linked directly to the house, plucked from the pages of the issue or not, I’ve gathered this selection of visuals that I think harmoniously captures the bond that exists (or existed) between these people – an inclination towards the unconventional. Today scattered between Paris and Antwerp, London, Tokyo, Vienna and further afield, these quiet, avant-garde image makers have each contributed to the revolution brought on by Maison Martin Margiela.”

Nigel Bennett
Film for the MMM AW04 collection

Nigel Bennett
Film for the MMM AW04 collection

Anders Edström
The Island of Bergman’s Dreams

Anders Edström
The Island of Bergman’s Dreams

Kyoichi Tsuzuki
Happy Victims, 2008

Marina Faust
MMM AW92

PONI
Project 2: Soma Sema, 2006

Inge Grognard & Ronald Stoops

Ronald Stoops
MMM AW95

Jonathan Hallam
La Femme de Cabine – Martin Margiela, 1997-2004

Ronald Stoops & Inge Grognard

Tatsuya Kitayama & Inge Grognard

Ronald Stoops & Inge Grognard

Nigel Scott
Without Walls, Levitation, 1994

Marina Faust
Self Portrait with Dots, 2009

Inge Grognard
MMM AW90

Nigel Scott
Conversations with Blue, NYC, 2006 & 2012

Ola Rindal
Notes on Ordinary Spaces, 2019

Marina Faust
MMM SS05

Kyoichi Tsuzuki
Happy Victims, 2008

Maison Martin Margiela by Mark Borthwick (2000)

Ola Rindal
The Witness, 2007

PONI
Project 2: Soma Sema, 2006

Mark Borthwick
2000-1: Maison Martin Margiela by Mark Borthwick

Marina Faust
MMM94

Mark Borthwick
2000-1: Maison Martin Margiela by Mark Borthwick

Kyoichi Tsuzuki
Happy Victims, 2008

Ronald Stoops
MMM AW95

Ola Rindal
Night Tree, 2009

Mark Borthwick

PONI
Project 2: Soma Sema, 2006

Ola Rindal
Ghost, 2008

Marina Faust
MMM AW05

Anders Edström
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